Odisha's Eco-friendly Destinations You Would Love to Explore

The beautiful gorge at Satkosia, Angul

Be it Asia's largest brackish water of Lake Chilika, world's second largest mangrove forest at Bhitarkanika or even the picturesque gorge at Satkosia, Odisha has a lot in store for nature lovers. The State is actually a treasure trove of destinations for eco-tourism, where people can get up close and personal with nature. From lush jungles to wildlife habitats, Odisha is home to several places of unique biodiversity, and a variety of plants, birds and animals. Also, experience the lifestyle of communities who are committed to sustainable tourism and ensure that these destinations remain beautiful for several years to come. 

Here is a list of the best eco-tourism destinations in Odisha that you would love to explore. 

A cloud-kissed mountain at Daringbadi. Pic by Sujit Mohapatra

1. Daringbadi - Odisha's very own Kashmir - is a hill station located in Kandhamal district of the State. Covered with pine forests and located at an altitude of 3000 ft, this is the only place in Odisha which gets snowfall during extreme winter. In the winter months, the temperature here plummets to zero Degree Celsius. Daringbadi is blessed with green valleys that are cloud-kissed during monsoon, and the hill station also has scope for tribal tourism. Old timers say Britishers used to visit Daringbadi during summer to enjoy the nature's bounty.

Road to Daringbadi. Pic by Sujit Mohapatra

In the hill station, visit Dabubadi, which has a recreation centre or drive through pine plantations to the Daringbadi hill top to get a bird's eye view of the stunning vistas. The hill station has coffee plantations that stretch up to 22 km of the hill station. The other major attractions here are the Putudi Waterfall, black pepper and turmeric plantations and Belghar Sanctuary, 50 km away. The best time to visit this small hill station is between the months of November and July. One of the interesting accommodation options is DEERS (Daringbadi Eco Lodge). Here, they serve organic food and there is facility for a bonfire in the evening and a guided nature walk. The nearest railway station is at Berhampur and closest airport is at Bhubaneswar. 

2.  Head to Bhetnoi, a small village in Ganjam district of Odisha and watch herds of the endangered black bucks (Antelope cervicapra) grazing playfully in verdant surroundings. Every villager here lives with a purpose—conservation of black bucks. Hunting of black bucks is considered a crime and villagers have been protecting these beautiful creatures for over a century now, a practice that holds similarity with the Bishnoi community of Rajasthan.

The animals live in proximity with the human beings and villagers do not harm them even if they graze on the crops; there is a socio-religious belief behind the conservation norm. Locals say Bhetnoi suffered from a long spell of drought several years ago. One day, villagers sighted a small herd of black bucks following which, the village got rain. Since then, they believe that the animals are harbingers of rain and bring prosperity to the village. Visitors can interact with members of the Black Bucks Protection Committee and know more about the conservation of these animals. Bhetnoi village is 71 km from Berhampur and 165 km south of Bhubaneswar. Visitors can hire a car from Berhampur to visit the village for a one-day tour. Accommodation options are available at Berhampur. 

3. Spread out in an area of 282 sq km, Kuldiha Wildlife Sanctuary in Balasore district is a pristine forest land where one can sight cheetals, elephant herds, and Malabar giant squirrels among various other species of wildlife. The Kuldiha forest, covered with dense sal, rosewood, shimul trees and a host of parasitic trees, boasts of a rich flora and fauna. On the northwest direction of the sanctuary, there is Risia Dam, which provides an excellent opportunity for birding. There is a forest rest house deep inside the forest and at another spot—Jhorachua—located within the sanctuary; the latter has a watch tower nearby. 

Prior permission is required from the Divisional Forest Office for booking accommodation in the forest rest houses. Panchalingeswar too is a beautiful picnic spot with a Shiva temple having five Shivalingas on a hilltop and a pond nearby surrounded by dense forest. Herds of elephants visit the pond in summer to drink water. For day visitors, the exit time from sanctuary is 5.30 pm. Visitors can stay overnight to experience the wildlife in abundance. There is no electricity and phone network inside the sanctuary. Summer is the best time to visit. 

Bareipani Waterfall in Similipal

4. The Similipal Biosphere in Mayurbhanj district of Odisha is a nature lover's delight. With a reserve forest area of over 2750 sq km, Similipal Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the biggest in the country. Housing a variety of wild animals, including Royal Bengal Tigers, 304 species of birds and plants, the sanctuary is extremely rich in biodiversity. The core area of Similipal Tiger Reserve extends up to 1194 sq km and the buffer area measures 1555 sq km. As per the last tiger census, Similipal has around 25 Royal Bengal Tigers and the biosphere is also home to Similipal-Kuldiha-Hadgarh elephant reserve. 

Few months back, the authorities of Similipal Tiger Reserve set up an eco-tourism complex with bamboo cottages at Kumari near Gurguria within the sanctuary limits in addition to the two eco-complexes that are already operating at Gurguria and Jamuani. Reservations here can be done through the Deputy Director of Similipal Tiger Reserve (06792-259126) or www.toshaliresort.com. For day visitors, the Forest Department is now providing a 13-seater vehicle for visits within Similipal from Jashipur on the route Jashipur-Gurguria-Uski-Barehipani-Joranda-Chahala and back to Jashipur via Tulsibani at Rs. 5,550 per day. Every year, the sanctuary remains closed from June to November-end for monsoon and maintenance. 

Even as the sanctuary remains closed during this period, nature lovers can enjoy Sitakund, Bhimkund and Devkund waterfalls located nearby. Within the sanctuary, there are two magnificent waterfalls, namely Bareipani and Joranda. Entry permits to the sanctuary have to be obtained from forest range officers of Jasipur and Pithabata. From Jasipur side, there are three entry routes and from Pithabata, tourists can enter the sanctuary from four entry points.

Elephants in the Chandaka Sanctuary on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar

5.  Chandaka-Dampara Sanctuary is considered a safe haven for elephants in Odisha. Located on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, the Capital City of Odisha, the sanctuary spreads over an area of 193.39 sq km. The Forest Department, Government of Odisha, has been undertaking successful conservation of elephants in the sanctuary, which was notified in 1982. Apart from watching elephants here, one can visit several other places within the sanctuary. One of them is Godibari, the main entrance to Chandaka-Dampara Sanctuary. Godibari is located in between Daspur and Bhola forest on both sides of historical Grand Trunk Road that was built by Sher Shah Suri during 16th century.

Within the park, tourists can visit the Bharatpur reserve forest, Kochilaberena and Pitagadia where there are three watch towers. Tourists can watch elephants from the watch towers during the morning and noon hours. Besides, there is an ancient fort of King Chodaganga Dev that was built between 1078 and 1147 at Bualigarh nearby. For accommodation, there are forest rest houses at Deras and Dampara besides bamboo log huts at Deras and Godibari. The bamboo huts are priced at Rs. 1500 per night while the forest rest houses will cost Rs. 300 per night. These can be booked through the officer in-charge of Chandaka Wildlife Division, Bhubaneswar. Nearest railway station and airport is at Bhubaneswar. 

Want to see elephant herds in verdant surroundings? Find them aplenty, drinking water or grazing near Deras and Jhumka. Nestled inside the Chandaka-Dampara Sanctuary, the two beautiful dams of Deras and Jhumka are located at around 15 km from Bhubaneswar. There are also two large water bodies at Deras and Kumarkhunti nearby where elephant herds can be seen. One can take a nature trail of 6.5 km on a path developed around Deras Dam, which stands surrounded by green mountains on three sides and a water body on the fourth. Established in the year 1967, Deras is popular picnic spot during winter. Jhumka, similarly, stands in the lap of nature and is an apt destination to sit back and enjoy the verdant landscape. One can easily reach Deras and Jhumka from Bhubaneswar by two-wheelers or four-wheelers. 

Royal Bengal Tigers in the Nandankanan Zoo

6. The Nandankanan Zoological Park, nicknamed Garden of God, is a must visit for wildlife lovers. Located on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, the 400-acre Nandankanan Zoo has around 1580 animals that include 634 mammals, 812 birds and 134 reptiles. This is a host zoo for white tigers and the only zoo in the country, which has Patas Monkeys, Eastern Rosella variety of parakeet and Open-billed Stork (it is the second largest heronry for Open billed Storks in Odisha). It is also the first zoo in the country where Gharials were born in captivity in the 80s. Special attractions here are the Bear Safari, Lion Safari and a unique White Tiger Safari. One can take a toy train ride within the park for just Rs 10 per head. Nandankanan currently has 34 tigers including White Tigers and Black or Melanistic Tigers.
After going round the zoo, take a boat ride in Kanjia Lake, a wetland of national importance located along the Nandankanan Zoological Park, or visit the State Botanical Garden on the opposite side of the lake. The park remains closed on Mondays and visiting hours are from 8 am to 5.30 pm. Entry fee for Indians is Rs 20 per person and for a foreign national, the charge is Rs 100. More than 2.5 million people visit Nandankanan every year.

Sea Mouth Island in Satpada

7.  Odisha is also home to around 100-odd endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins that can be seen at Satapada. At the Satapada Jetty, visitors can hire a boat and the boatman will take them into the endless blue expanse of Chilika Lake. The site also houses the Sea Mouth Island where Chilika Lake meets the Bay of Bengal. Watch the Irrawaddy Dolphins in the lake at the Dolphin Point and then head towards the island where the Chilika meets the Bay of Bengal. From the Dolphin Point, the Sea Mouth Island is one hour of boat side. Get off the boat and take a stroll on the mouth of the sea or bite into freshly fried fish and crabs at small food kiosks on the spot. However, do not give in to the temptation of buying pearls from vendors there who claim to be taking them out fresh from oysters.

By road, Satapada is 110 km from Bhubaneswar and 50 km Puri. The best time of the day to take a boat ride in Satapada to watch dolphins is the morning. The Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) organises Bhubaneswar-Puri-Satapada tours every month. A day trip to Satapada is enough but for those who want to stay back and witness the sunrise and sunset in Chilika Lake, there is just one accommodation option in the area. There is the OTDC-managed Yatri Nivas close to the Satpada Jetty and rooms can be booked online through www.otdc.in. Rooms can also be booked through tourist offices in Puri and Bhubaneswar.

8.  Chilika, Asia's largest brackish water lake, is a paradise for those interested in birding, fishing and boating. The lake spreads over 1000 sq km in the districts of Khurda, Puri and Ganjam and it houses a wide variety of flora and fauna in its brackish waters. Within Chilika, there are a number of places that will leave tourists mesmerised; Nalabana Bird sanctuary, Honeymoon Island, Kalijai, Balugaon and Mangaljodi, to name a few. Mangaljodi and Nalabana Bird Sanctuary are birdwatchers' paradise. While Nalabana is a protection site of migratory birds, Mangaljodi is a community-based eco-tourism habitat where various rare birds along with regional and migratory avian species can be seen. 

Interestingly, Mangaljodi village was earlier a haven for poachers but after the intervention of State and wildlife lovers, it has now turned into a beautiful bird paradise. Locals now eke out their living through eco-tourism and fishing. The best to visit Chilika is between October and February. Lakhs of migratory birds from the Himalayas, Sibera, Afghanistan, Iraq and Iran can be seen here during the winter months. One of the common avian guests arriving in the brackish water lake is the Flamingo. Tourists can also visit the Kalijai and Narayani temples within the lake, which have Goddess Kali and Goddess Durga as their presiding deities, respectively. Honeymoon Island, Breakfast Island and Beacon Island are three most important islands of Chilika where limbless lizards and other varieties of animals can be seen. The lake has three entry points—Barakul, Rambha and Balugaon—and for accommodation, OTDC has its Yatri Nivas properties in all the three places where rooms can be either booked online or in person. As far as food is concerned, the locally-prepared seafood is the best bet. The nearest airport is at Bhubaneswar and railhead at Balugaon. By road, Chilika is around 120 km from Bhubaneswar and taxis are easily available. 

9.  Satkosia is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful ecosystems in Odisha. It not only has a magnificent gorge over the River Mahanadi but is also a tiger reserve and a breeding centre for fresh water crocodiles, gharial and mugger. Located close by is the Baisipalli Sanctuary. In fact, the Satkosia Tiger Reserve comprises two wildlife sanctuaries—the Satkosia Gorge sanctuary and Baisipalli sanctuary—both spreading over four districts of Angul, Nayagarh, Cuttack and Boudh. While the tiger reserve spreads over an area of 963.87sq km, the core area is 523.61 sq km.

There are three entry points to Satkosia, namely Tikarapada, Chhotakei, and Purunakote. While boating in the permitted area of Mahanadi towards the gorge, one can sight fresh water turtles like Chitra indica and Aspidiretes gangeticus perched on the rocks besides, the massive gharials and muggers basking in the sun on the river bank. The river is surrounded by majestic mountains on both the sides. Even as there are forest rest houses in Chhotakei and Purunakote, the most beautiful accommodation units in Satkosia are the 10 eco-tents in Tikarpada, which are maintained by a group of tribal youths of Tikarpada village hired by the forest department for the purpose. The youths are extremely cordial and forthcoming; they not only maintain the tents and offer guided nature treks in the forest, but also cook for the visitors. On request, they catch fresh water fish from the river, which is cooked in an open kitchen for visitors. 

Tourists can go round the Gharial Research and Conservation Unit in Tikarpada where young, sub-adult gharials are reared in captivity. A similar facility has been set up by the Satkosia Wildlife Division at Tarava village where local communities play host to the nature enthusiasts. Bookings for the forest rest houses and the eco-tents can be done through www.satkosia.org. The Satkosia eco-system is around 200 km from Bhubaneswar, which has the nearest airport link. If travelling by road from Bhubaneswar, one has to take the NH-6 till Cuttack and then divert to NH-42 towards Dhenkanal and Angul. Permit to enter Satkosia has to be obtained at the Divisional Forest Office at Angul and then, proceed towards Pampasar, the main entry gate. 

10.  Cruise through snaking rivers with dark mangrove forests on both the sides and witness giant crocodiles basking in the sun on the river banks at Bhitarkanika National Park. Considered the second largest mangrove forest in the country after the Sunderbans, Bhitarkanika promises to be an enthralling experience. It is home to over 1600 salt-water crocodiles besides, sambars, spotted deer, monitor lizards and rhesus monkeys. One of the prime attractions of the park is the 22-feet crocodile named Kaalia. The marshy wetlands at Bhitarkanika are surrounded by three rivers—Baitarani, Brahmani and Dhamra—and have around 60 to 70 varieties of mangroves. While the national park spreads over an area of 650 sq km, it has a mangrove forest cover of 115 sq km. 

Every year during the winter and monsoon, the park plays host to lakhs of migratory birds like intermediary egret, large egret, grey heron, darter, purple heron and cormorant. Bagagahana and Saribana—considered ornithologist' paradise—are the spots within the park where the residential and migratory birds can be seen. At Bagagahana, one can easily sight the white bellied sea eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster), an endangered species. The Gahirmatha beach within the national park is the largest rookery in Odisha. Around three km away from Gahirmatha is the Dangamal Island, which houses the Captive Breeding & Research Centre for estuarine crocodiles. Here, one can also see India's only female albino captive white crocodile, Gori, and spot deer grazing. Khola and Gupti are the two main entry points to Bhitarkanika and visitors need to collect entry permits before proceeding. 

By road, Khola and Gupti points are 160 km from Bhubaneswar and 140 km from Cuttack. From Bhadrak side, Bhitarkanika is just 55 km by road. Boating services along with guides are available at these two spots. Best time to visit is October to February when one can also sight the Olive Ridleys and migratory birds in the sanctuary. For accommodation, there are Swiss cottages by Sand & Pebbles (www.bhitarkanikanationalpark.com) and a forest rest house at Dangamal. The national park has been proposed to be included in the list of World Heritage Sites. 

11. Nestled along the Hirakud reservoir, the Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary houses a varied flora and fauna. It comprises Debrigarh and Lohara reserve forests under the Barapahad hills of Bargarh district in Western Odisha. Among all kinds of animals found here, Indian gaur (bison) and four-horned antelope or chousingha can be easily seen in the sanctuary, which was established by the Government in 1930. There are around 500 endangered four-horned antelopes in the Debrigarh forests.

Forest Rest House in Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary

Tourism inside the sanctuary is entirely managed by people of four villages. Boating facility can be availed in the protected area of the sanctuary. One of the popular sites within the sanctuary is the waterfall named Ushakothi. There is a historical side to Debrigarh sanctuary as well. During the freedom struggle, freedom fighter Veer Surendra Sai hid himself in the forests on the hilltop of Barapahar and fought a war against the British. He was captured by the British from his hideout inside the sanctuary. The total sanctuary area is 353.81 sq km and best time to visit is from November to April. 

Entry point to the sanctuary is Dhodrokusum. There are six eco-tourism cottages in the sanctuary at Barkhandia and each cottage would cost Rs. 1600 per night, which would include breakfast, lunch and dinner. Accommodation is available at the Forest Rest Houses in Dhodrokusum and Dechua at Rs. 200 per day. There is however, no specific provision of guides in the sanctuary. Other places of interest nearby the sanctuary are the Hirakud Dam (15 km away) and the Leaning Temple of Lord Bimaleswar at Huma (65 km away). Hirakud Dam is the largest manmade water body in Asia and covers one third of the landscape boundary on the eastern side of the sanctuary. During winter, a large number of migratory birds flock the reservoir.

Deba Snana Purnima

Gajanan Vesha of the Trinity on the occasion of Deba Snana Purnima in Puri

Lord Balabhadra, Devi Subhadra and Lord Jagannath atop the Snana Bedi before the bathing rituals

Snana Mandap at Jagannath Temple in Puri

The 12th Century Jagannath Temple in Puri

 Here are some glimpses of the Deba Snana Purnima of Lord Jagannath, Devi Subhadra and Lord Balabhadra at Puri, which was celebrated on Tuesday. As per the rituals, the Trinity were taken to the bathing altar at the outer complex of Jagannath temple where they were bathed with 108 pitchers of aromatic and herbal water that was taken out from the Suna Kua (golden well) near Maa Shitala inside the Uttara Dwara (north gate) of the temple.

The Gajapati Dibyasingh Dev - the foremost servitor of the Lord - arrived at the Snana Mandap for Chhera Pahanra (sweeping of the Snana Mandap with a golden broom) atop the Snana Bedi. After performing a complex set of rituals, the servitors decked the Trinity in Gaja Besha, incarnation of Lord Ganesh. The priests then offered 'bhog' to the deities before allowing public for Sahana Mela (public darshan).

The Sahana Mela which began at 6 pm and continued till 11 pm. Late in the night, the deities were escorted to a solitary place in the temple complex, 'Anasar Ghara' (sick room). The deities, supposedly suffering from fever after taking the bath, would retire to bed for 45 days. During this time public darshan is closed in the main temple and representative deities are placed in the sanctum sanctorum. With the Nabakalebara of the Trinity being observed this year, they  will have a 'Maha Anasara' for 45 days, 30 days more than the usual 'Anasara' held every year. The temple physician would treat the deities in the sick room with herbal medicines in this period.  

As per religious belief, during Anasara period Lord Jagannath manifests in Alarnath Dev in Brahmagiri. Devotees in large numbers rush to Alarnath temple, 23 km from Puri and offer Kheer Prasad.

Of Sun, Sand and Sea

With a coastline of 485 km along the Bay of Bengal, Odisha is home to some of the best beaches in India. From Balasore to Ganjam, these pristine and beautiful beaches have everything to offer to a visitor from a clean sea bed to turquoise blue waters to golden sparkling sand. 

 Travellers can lie back and witness sea waves crashing melodiously on the shore or engage in fun-filled activities, including fishing with the local fishermen, besides uninterrupted sunbathing. Many of the beaches are surrounded by casuarina vegetation and palm trees, which add to the beauty. Almost all the unspoilt beaches are perfect destinations for travellers looking for tranquillity as well as adventure.

 Here's the link to my Guide on Enchanting Beaches of Odisha

http://www.happytrips.com/orissa/travel-guide/10-enchanting-beaches-in-odisha/gs47121030.cms

The Keeper of Folk Sound Garden

By Diana Sahu
  
Odia folk dancer Rabi Ratan Sahu, 34, is drumming up the much-awaited awareness on Odia musical instruments through a thrilling and innovative installation. The installation ‘Music Tree’ was at the Dying Folk Art Festival of Odisha held at Bhubaneswar recently. Rabi is rekindling people’s interest in the fading folk musical instruments and bringing them to the mainstream. Many of these have either become extinct or are on the verge of extinction. Rabi feels that if the musical instruments are treated like ancient artefacts in a museum, they will gradually fade away.

Rabi Ratan Sahu with his Music Tree on the premises of Rabindra Mandap in Bhubaneswar

Rabi has always been fascinated by the sights and sounds of folk musical instruments and now wants to preserve them. Having started his journey into the genre eight years ago with a research on folk art traditions of Odisha from the Guru Kelucharan Mohapatra Odissi Research Centre, Rabi has collected some of the rare traditional and folk musical instruments from the four corners of Odisha in the last three years. Many of the instruments in his collection are not seen widely today.

He exhibited a part of his treasure trove at the 5th Lok Badya and Lok Nrutya Mahotsav hosted recently by the Odisha Sangeet Natak Akademi at Utkal Mandap in Bhubaneswar. It was an innovative display. Rabi used a tree to hang the musical instruments. The ‘Music Tree’ attracted culture connoisseurs in hordes. The 14-foot-high tree made of Plaster of Paris, coir, bamboo and ropes, had no leaves. Musical instruments like Bhalu Bansi, Brahma Beena, Birtia, Dhanakoila, Banam and Singha—intrinsic part of Odisha’s tribal folk tradition—were hung from the branches.

Rabi commissioned the installation as a part of his collaboration with the Sangeet Natak Akademi to create awareness about the waning folk music tradition. “The Music Tree was showcased in Bhubaneswar for the second time. Had I exhibited my collection at a stall, no one would have taken notice. Hence, I thought of an innovative way to popularise these folk instruments,” says Rabi. He will be showcasing the ‘Music Tree’ at different festivals organised by the Culture Department of Odisha.

Rabi set up the Sambalpuri Folk Academy at Bargarh to preserve folk dance and music after completing his research. He has collected over 50 rare musical instruments so far. His search for these instruments has taken him to remote pockets of Malkangiri, Kalahandi, Koraput, Ganjam, Kandhamal, Nuapada, Sambalpur, Talcher, Sundargarh, Mayurbhanj and Bargarh.

According to Rabi, tribal communities of Odisha have folk songs for every occasion—from child birth to new season, rains, crops and even death. The songs are accompanied by musical instruments that are preserved by senior members of the tribal communities. During his journey in the state, Rabi came across many forms of music that are not passed on from one community to another.

Some of the tribal musicians are old and their music is at the risk of dying out. “These forms of music need support of connoisseurs and government to survive,” he says.
His next project is an audio-visual presentation of folk music instruments in ‘Music Tree’. Rabi is also creating a 20-foot-high ‘Music Ganesh’ which will be decorated with different musical instruments. Bringing these folk musical instruments to the mainstream, Rabi has also proposed to set up a Music Tree in Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts in Delhi to highlight Odisha’s folk music.

The story was first published at http://www.newindianexpress.com/magazine/The-Keeper-of-a-Folk-Sound-Garden/2015/04/18/article2767563.ece

Bold Troupers of a Folksy Dance Cult

Gotipua dancers ready for a show

By Diana Sahu

Raghurajpur, the first heritage village of Odisha situated on the banks of river Bhargabi, is known worldwide for its Pattachitra. Bylanes of this quaint little village, where every house is a canvas, are also home to another beautiful art form—Gotipua. At the far end of the village, stand two organisations that have been nurturing Gotipua with all its pristine flavour and glory—Dasabhuja Gotipua Odissi Nrutya Parishad and Abhinna Sundar Gotipua Nrutya Parishad.

 

 

 World-renowned Odissi guru Kelucharan Mohapatra was a Gotipua dancer in his early days. To continue the tradition, the organisations have given the dance form a new lease of life amidst cultural apathy within the state. The Dasabhuja Gotipua Odissi Nrutya Parishad was established by late Guru Maguni Charan Das, the pioneer of Gotipua dance, almost four decades ago. Sebendra Das, brother of Guru Maguni Das, currently runs the Dasabhuja Parishad. He explains the relevance of the dance form. “Gotipua is an amalgamation of two Odia words; Goti means single and Pua means boy. When the dance of the Maharis and the Devadasis of the Jagannath Temple at Puri disintegrated due to various reasons, young boys from various ‘akhadas’ were trained to take the tradition forward. Earlier, Gotipua used to be performed by a single boy, but over the years it evolved as a group dance.” 

The Abhinna Sundar Gotipua Nrutya Parishad has been working for the promotion and popularisation of the ancient dance form for 11 years. It was set up by late Guru Laxman Maharana. “A boy who masters all the three skills of singing, playing folk musical instruments and dancing is considered a true Gotipua. In Odissi, a dancer is restricted to dance,” says Priyabrat Pallai, the guru at Dasabhuja Parishad.
He feels that Gotipua is a poor man’s dance. “Such is the plight of Gotipua that not many cultural organisations in Odisha provide a platform for the artistes during their annual festivals. In fact, our boys perform more outside Odisha. Even the Culture Department has stopped organising its annual Gotipua Festival that was started in 2011,” rues Pallai.

It is believed that most of the grammar and material of the present day Odissi repertoire were distilled from Gotipua that originated as a temple ritual for Lord Jagannath. Movements in the two dance forms are same. The style and approach is different. The uniqueness of Gotipua is its combination of song and dance by boys between five and 15 years, who dress up as girls. They perform to verses on Radha and Krishna written by the Vaishnavite poets of Odisha.

Gotipua is gaining global recognition for its rawness and exuberance. “Though Odissi got the classical status due to proper documentation and promotion by connoisseurs, no such effort has ever been made for Gotipua. It is mainly practised in villages by boys mostly coming from BPL families,” says Abhinna Parishad’s Basanta Kumar Moharana, who recently took a batch of students on a dance tour to Paris.

Both the organisations follow the traditional ‘gurukul’ form of teaching and practise the Raghurajpur ‘gharana’ of Gotipua. Dasabhuja Parishad and Abhinna Parishad have trained more than 300 Gotipua dancers from Puri district. Currently, 35 boys are undergoing training at Dasabhuja Parishad and 15 in Abhinna Parishad. For both the parishads, finance has been a concern. The future is uncertain. “There have been years when we have done 100 shows across the world at a stretch and at times, we get to do just 20 to 30 shows in a year. Stage shows abroad fetch good money. Besides, we earn by performing at all festivals related to Lord Jagannath like Rath Yatra, Chandan Yatra, Jhulana, Dola Yatra,” Basanta adds. 

- dianasahu@gmail.com

A Walk Down Heritage Lane

The City of Temples or 'Mandira Malini', Bhubaneswar was once home to at least 2000 temples. Of them, only 700 exist today. Although a majority of them are dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Capital City also houses heritage structures related to Buddhism and Jainism. Each of these structures are characterised by magnificent architectural designs and beautiful sculptures. Apparently, the City derives its names from the Sanskrit name of Lord Shiva, Tribhuvaneswar, and mythological references describe the area as Ekamra Kshetra and Shaiva Pitha. Historians say construction of temples in Bhubaneswar was at its peak between the 7th and 12th century. Almost all the temples can be seen in the Old Town area around the Bindusagar Lake. 

TRLT brings to you a list of 14 temples/heritage sites you can visit to experience the Kalinga style of temple architecture.

Chausathi Yogini Temple at Hirapur, on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar

1.Chausathi Yogini (64 Yoginis) or Mahamaya Temple is located 15 km away from Bhubaneswar at Hirapur. Located amidst paddy fields, the temple is associated with tantric cult of Odisha and occult practices of medieval times. Built towards the end of Bhauma rule in the 9th century, Yogini Temple is perhaps the smallest of four Yogini temples in the country. While one Yogini Temple is located at Ranipur-Jharial near Titlagarh in Balangir district of Odisha, the remaining two are in Madhya Pradesh. The hypaethral (roof-less) temple facing the east was discovered by Kedarnath Mohapatra of Odisha State Museum in 1953. While 10-armed Mahamaya is the presiding deity of the temple, the heavily ornamented two feet high 64 Yoginis are installed in standing postures, each exhibiting a distinct hairstyle. According to legends, Yoginis accompanied goddess Durga during her war with the demon Mahishasura. In the centre, stands a 'mandap' with an image of 'Ekapada Shiva', an incarnation of the Lord Shiva. All the sculptures in the temple are carved out of fine-grained gray chlorite, while the outer walls are decorated with images of 'Katyayanis'. A pond, called Mahamaya Gaadia', is located in front of the temple adds to the ambience of the place.  

Khadagiri Caves in Bhubaneswar

2. The twin hills of Khandagiri and Udayagiri, located seven kilometre west of Bhubaneswar, are the earliest groups of Jain rock-cut architecture in eastern India. While Khandagiri means a broken hill, Udayagiri denotes the hill of sunrise. There are total 33 rock-cut caves on both the hills out of which, 18 caves are excavated on Udayagiri Hill while 15 are on the Khandagiri Hill. Generally caves are single storeyed but a few of them are double storeyed. The small caves were constructed for meditation purpose of Jain monks and the height being low, does not allow a man to stand erect. As per the inscription at the site, the caves were first excavated by king Kharavela of Chedi Dynasty and his successors who were devout Jains during the first century BC. At the top of Khandagiri, lies a Jain temple, which was constructed in late 19th century. The 18 caves of Udayagiri include the Hathi Gumpha (elephant cave) with its famous inscription of king Kharavela that talks about his military exploits. Another cave―Rani Gumpha (Queen's cave) in Udayagiri―is double-storeyed, having a spacious courtyard. This cave is adorned with elaborate carvings on historical scenes, dancers and religious functions. These ASI protected hills can be approached through NH-5. While entry fee for Indian, SAARC and BIMSTEC citizens is Rs 5 per head, foreign visitors have to pay US $2.00 to enter the hills. 

Sisupalgarh Ruins

3. On the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, off the main road to Puri, stand the fortified ruins of Sisupalgarh that date back to 350 BC. It was the capital of ancient Kalinga during the rule of Chedi Dynasty, which had Kharvela as its king. Historians say that the Hindu epic Mahabharata contains the story of Chedi king Sisupal, a cousin of Lord Krishna who was decapitated by Krishna in an open court. Sisupal was an ancestor of King Kharavela. According to a survey by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), in 1947-48 the fort area was spread over 562.68 acres of land. In 1950, Sishupalgarh was notified as a centrally-protected monument under the Ancient Monuments Act - 1904. Sisupalgarh has a 2000-year-old quadratic defensive wall, measuring 1200 X 1160 m and portions of the surviving wall are as high as 12 m. The first excavation of the site was conducted by famous historian BB Lal in 1948-49, which brought to light traces of an impressive fort, which, according to historians, was built over several centuries with additions, alterations and various fortifications. Over a decade back, RK Mohanty from Deccan College, Pune and Monica Smith from Cotsen Institute of Archaeology, University of California, excavated around 18 pillars at the site and found various artefacts like pottery, terracotta ornaments. They found the evidence of an urban settlement and estimated the population of the community at over 20,000, living in a city having well laid-out streets and houses with two or three rooms each.   

Rameshwar Temple

4. Also known as Mausi Maa temple of Lord Lingaraj, Rameshwar Temple is just two km away from Lingaraj temple. The temple houses a Shiva Linga within a circular 'yonipitha' made of chlorite. There is also an image of the Durga that is worshipped within the sanctum. Historians say that the temple was built during the late Soma Vansh period that can be traced to the early part of the 12th century AD. The Jagamohan (assembly hall) of the temple was built much later. According to legends, when Lord Ram was returning from Lanka after victory over Ravana, goddess Sita asked to worship Shiva at the site of the temple. Seeing her devotion, Ram built a lingam at the site for the purpose of her worship. Every year during Rukuna Rath Yatra, the annual chariot festival of Lord Lingaraj, bronze images of three deities―Chandrasekhar (the representative of Lord Lingaraj), Rukmini and Basudeva are taken to Rameshwar Temple in a colourful procession. The festival is also called Ashokastami and the deities stay in the temple for four days before returning in the chariot to Lingaraj Temple. The temple stands amidst a beautiful park and within its precincts, lies a lily pond. 

Megheswar Temple

5. Another richly carved temple belonging to the 12th century, Megheswar Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built in Saptaratha style of temple architecture, the temple is decorated with carvings of graceful dancers, animals, birds and flowers. Located at Pandav Nagar on the Tankapani Road, the temple complex houses two more temples of Bhaskareswar and Brahmeswar, which are equally ornate. The Bhaskareswar Temple is different from all the temples of the State in terms of structural pattern. The temple is raised on a circular platform and a nine-feet-high Shiva Linga is enshrined inside it. According to an inscription on the premises, the Megheswar along with the water tank near it, came into existence at the instance of Svapnesvara, brother-in-law of the Ganga King Rajaraja during the reign of the latter's brother Anangabhima (1192-95 AD). The Brahmeswar Temple on the premises resembles Mukteswar temple as far as the carvings on the walls are concerned. There is depiction of dancers and musicians on the exterior walls of the temple and in the West side of the structure, there are figures of Lord Shiva and Chamunda. 

Anata Basudev Temple

6. A 13th century edifice dedicated to Lord Krishna, Ananta-Basudev is the only important Vaishnava Temple in Bhubaneswar. Like Jagannath Temple in Puri, idols of Lord Krishna, Lord Balaram and goddess Subhadra are worshiped here. The idols here are made of granite unlike in Puri, where three deities are carved out of wood. While the idol of Lord Balaram stands under a seven hooded serpent, of which Lord Krishna holds a mace and a conch. Another similarity between the Jagannath shrine and Ananta-Basudev Temple is its 'bhoga' (prasad), which is sold and served at the Ananda Bazaar, located within the temple premises. The prasad at this temple is the most sought-after holy meal in Odisha after Lord Jagannath's 'abhada bhoga'. The epigraph on the temple premises reads that it was constructed by Chandrikadevi, daughter of Ananga Bhimadev III in the Saka era of 1278 AD. Located close to the Bindusagar Lake, the temple is visited by thousands of devotees during Janmastami. On the walls of the temple, there is a sculpture of Varaha (boar) incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Apparently, the design of Ananta-Basudev is completely different from other temples in old Bhubaneswar. What makes it different from the rest is that the temple, comprising Jagamohana, Bhoga Mandap and Nata Mandira, stands on a uniform platform. 

Vaital Deul

7. A late 8th century temple dedicated to goddess Chamunda, Vaital Deul is also known as Tini Mundia temple. Located within a walking distance from Lingaraj Temple, Vaital Deul is in the shape of a sanctuary tower and popular as a Shakti Temple. Associated with tantric cult, sacrifice and eroticism, the temple has eerie carvings in the sanctum that has an idol of eight armed Chamunda, locally known as Kapaḷini, the terrifying form of goddess Durga (Mahishasura Mardini). The presiding deity sits on a corpse flanked by a jackal and an owl, and is adorned with a garland of skulls. She holds a snake, bow, shield, sword, trident, thunderbolt and an arrow, and is piercing the neck of the demon. In front of the Jagamohana, there is a stand post where sacrificial offerings were made. On the outer walls of the temple are carvings of Sun God, Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati in her Shakti form and scenes from hunting processions. Some of the early erotic sculptures in Odishan art are found here; erotica later became a conventional motif, present in almost all forms of decorative temple architecture. On the eastern face of the temple, one can see an extremely fine image of the Sun God flanked by his sisters―Usha and Pratyusa―in a chariot, which is driven by Aruna. The Vaital Deul complex also houses another temple by the name of Sisireswar.

Kedar Gauri Temple

8. Kedar Gauri Temple, located in old town area, is one of the eight Astasambhu (8 Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Shiva) temples in Bhubaneswar. There are several legends associated with the construction of Kedar Gauri Temple. According to one, there lived a couple, Kedar and Gauri who decided to marry. The society, though, was against the union that led them to flee from village. During the journey, Gauri felt hungry and Kedar went to search for food during when he was killed by a tiger. When Gauri heard this, she jumped into a pond. After hearing the tragic episode, king Lalatendu Keshari raised a temple, called Kedar Gauri. Dedicated to Lord Shiva (who is also called the Kedareswar) and goddess Gauri, the temple is situated 40 m south of the Mukteswar Temple. In its premises there are two ponds―Khira Kund and Marichi Kund―that are said to have sacred powers. The temple is also famous for the Sitalsasthi Festival during when Lord Lingaraj from Lingaraj Temple is brought in a marriage procession to Kedar Gauri Temple, where he gets married to Devi Parvati. Other attractions of Kedar Gauri Temple are an 8-feet statue of Hanuman and goddess Durga standing on a lion. 

Brahmeswara Temple

9. Situated around a kilometres east of the Lingaraj Temple, the Brahmeswara Temple was built by Somavamsi king Udyotakesari's mother, Kolavati Devi, in honour of the deity Brahmeswara (a form of Lord Shiva) in 9th century. Standing tall at 60-feet, the walls of the temple are exquisitely carved inside and outside with sculptures of several gods and goddesses, animal, birds, erotic couples, damsels and religious scenes. The carvings over the doorframe contain beautiful flower designs as well as flying figures. Like Rajarani Temple, there are images of 'Dikpalas' or guardians of the eight directions in Brahmeswara, besides a number of tantric-related sculptors. A carving of 'Chamunda' appears on the western facade, holding a trident and a human head, standing on a corpse. Lord Shiva and other deities are also depicted in their horrific avatars. Historians say this was the first time that iron beams were used in the construction of a temple in Odisha. One of the lost inscriptions of the temple stated that Kolavati Devi presented 'many beautiful women' to the temple, and it has been suggested that this is an evidence of the 'Devadasi' tradition, which assumed great importance in later Odishan temple architecture and temple life.

Rajarani Temple

10. The 11th century Rajarani Temple, also known as Indreshwara Temple or the temple of love, stands amidst well maintained gardens in Old Bhubaneswar. Famous for its sculptures and successive tiers of projections rising to form the main tower, the temple derives its name from a variety of sandstone (dull red and turbid yellow sandstone) used to build it. With the outer walls ornately carved with numerous erotic sculptures of couples, Rajarani is a reminiscent of the temples of Khajuraho. The temple is aesthetically stunning with carvings of tall and slender nayikas (temple figures) carved in high relief on the walls―figures in amorous dalliance and in acts, such as fondling her child, looking into the mirror, taking off her anklet, caressing the bird, playing instrument, holding branches of trees etc. Around the entire structure are sculptures of 'Dikpalas' or guardians of the eight directions carved around the temple. The temple does not have an idol in the sanctum sanctorum, but its strong Shaivite association can be testified from the figures of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati on the platform and Shaiva Dwarapalas (doorkeepers) on the entrance doorjambs. The temple, located on the Tankapani Road, is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) as a ticketed monument. While there is an entry fee of Rs 5 for Indian visitors, foreigners have to pay Rs 100 to enter the temple premises. 

Siddheshwar Temple

11. Siddheshwar Temple dates back to 10th century and is located within the premises of the Mukteswar temple. Historians say all the 10th century temples in Bhubaneswar reveal the unification of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temple architecture. Siddheshwar Temple is taller than Mukteswar temple and its outer walls are covered with minimal carvings. The temple is not as ornate as Mukteswar but has a charm of its own as far as the construction pattern is concerned. The temple tower, built in Pancharatna style of classical Kalinga School of temple architecture, is grouped by a row of miniature turrets and all four sides of the tower are surmounted by four lions. While Lord Shiva is worshipped in the sanctum sanctorum, a beautiful figure of Lord Ganesh in standing posture is another attraction of the temple. The Ganesh idol that is kept covered with a thick layer of red vermillion has been installed at the eastern base of the temple spire. One has to walk through a beautifully maintained garden to reach the temple.

Parasurameswar Temple

12. A few metres away from the Mukteswar Temple, stands the small but lavishly decorated Parasurameswar Temple that dates back to the Sailodbhava period between the 7th and 8th centuries AD. It has all the elements of the pre-10th century style of Kalinga architecture like pine spire and pyramid covered hall. Although the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is among the first Hindu religious structures to contain depictions of Sapta-Matrikas-Chamunda, Varahi, Indrani, Vaisnavi, Kaumari, Sivani and Brahmi. The temple also contains the earliest representation of a six-armed Mahisamardini Durga image.
Parasurameswar is the only temple with a surviving Jagamohana. Among other carvings are those of Lord Shiva subduing the demon king Ravana, who is seen trying to uproot Mount Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva. The deity is also sculpted as Nataraja in various tandavas (dance poses) in the temple. In the courtyard, there is a Sahasralinga decorated with a thousand miniature versions of it. The Jagamohana has four latticed windows that are decorated with beautifully carved bands of dancers and musicians, while there is a frequent representation of Lakulisha throughout the outer walls of the edifice. He is sculpted in meditating in Buddha-like form with four disciples at his feet.

Mukteswar Temple

13. Considered 'Gem of Kalinga School of Temple Architecture', Mukteswar Temple is famous for its exquisite and beautiful sculptures in red sandstone. It is one of the most refined temples of Odisha owing to its elegant proportions and delicate carvings. A mid-9th century edifice, the 34-feet-high Mukteswar Temple is adorned with ornate carvings of Panchatantra stories, heavily ornamented female figures with expressive faces, faces of Buddhist and Jain monks, with every minute detail carved to utmost precision. The diamond-shaped latticed windows in the north and south walls of Jagamohana (assembly hall of the temple), depict scenes of frolicking monkeys and ceiling of the temple is decorated with eight lotus petals. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The most beautiful element of this temple is a decorated stone 'torana' (archway) in front of the Jagamohana, which dates back to 900 AD. The archway is decorated with carvings of reclining women, animals, flowers and a combination of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain motifs. On the twin pillars of the archway are delicate carvings of scroll bands, beads and ornaments. A small water tank, locally known as Marichi Kunda, lies just behind the temple. On the door frame of Marichi Kunda is a seated figure of Lakulisha, a prominent Shaivite revivalist, reformist and preceptor of the doctrine of the Pashupatis, one of the oldest sects of Shaivism. The temple is located off the Lewis Road in the older southern part of Bhubaneswar. Every year, Odisha Tourism and Culture Department organised the Mukteswar Dance Festival on the temple premises in January-February.

Lingaraj Temple

14. Lingaraj Temple, built in 11th century, is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is considered as the largest temple of the city. Built by king Jajati Keshari of Soma Vansh, the main tower of this temple measures 180-feet in height. It is built in red stone and is a classic example of Kalinga style of architecture. The temple is divided into four sections―Garbh Griha (sanctum sanctorum), Yajna Shala (the hall of yajnas), Bhoga Mandap (the hall of offering) and the Natya Shala (hall of dance), and the spacious courtyard of the magnificent shrine comprises 50 small temples that are dedicated to several Gods of the Hindu pantheon. In the sanctum sanctorum, the linga of Lord Shiva is regarded as 'Swayambhu' (self-originated) and worshipped as both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. It is said that when construction of Lingaraj Temple was about to be completed, Jagannath culture started growing in Odisha. Hence, the presiding deity here is known as Hari-Hara; Hari denotes Lord Vishnu and Hara meaning Lord Shiva. The Shivalinga in the sanctum of the temple rises to a height of 8 inches above the floor level, and is 8 feet in diameter. Although thousands of devotees visit the Lingaraj every day, the temple comes alive on the occasions of Shivaratri and Rukuna Rath Yatra. This temple is only accessible to Hindus. Located to the north of the temple is Bindusagar Lake, one of the popular picnic spots in the city. About 1300 ft long and 700 ft wide, this lake turns into a visual delight when thousands of people set sail tiny boats on the occasion of Boita Bandana that commemorates Odisha's rich maritime history. On the western banks of the lake, lies the beautiful garden of Ekamravan (literally meaning one-mango-tree forest). Ekamravan finds mention in ancient Hindu mythological texts as an entire forest that comprised a single mango tree. It was a key element in the abode of Lord Shiva and his divine consort, Goddess Parvati. A variety of plants traditionally associated with Hindu gods and goddess and having spiritual and medicinal significance can be found in Ekamravan.