Scripting A Seaside Story

A rainy morning at Nimapara

The road to Konark from Nimapara

 A date with the beach is always a welcome break from the mundane lives that we lead. So on a cloudy Sunday morning, I and four of my colleagues set out for a joyride to the Ramchandi beach from Bhubaneswar, the Capital City of Odisha. Adding a magical touch to our journey was the overcast sky. There is something extremely romantic about beaches during monsoon, I believe.
Our car passed through a narrow diversion road, potholed at some places, from the Bhubaneswar-Puri National Highway towards Konark that houses one of the 25 cultural World Heritage sites in the country, the ornate Sun Temple. From Konark, the Ramchandi beach was just 9.8 km away through the Puri-Konark Marine Drive road.
En route to Ramchandi, we stopped at a small town, Nimapara, for a quick breakfast. It had started drizzling by then.

The popular Chennai Jhili of Nimapara. It is believed that Aarta Sahoo of Shyam Sundarpur village near Nimapara had first come up with the recipe of this Cheese delight

Odisha is home to several mouth-watering sweets and Nimapara holds the reputation of making the soft and sweet 'Chenna Jhili', prepared by kneading Chenna (cottage cheese) into small round balls which are then deep fried and soaked in sugar syrup of thin consistency.
Passing through small roadside eateries, we decided to stop at one - a single room shop with two benches in the centre and one at the right. Its kitchen was a small cabin located just behind and food was being prepared right in front of our eyes. The shop owner-cum-cook offered us idlis with matar tarkari (peas curry) and one piece of Chenna Jhili each. The idlis weren't fluffy but the matar tarkari was piping hot, something that we needed to beat the monsoon chill. The winner on the plate, however, was the extremely soft and mildly sweet Jihili that melted in the mouth. No wonder food historians and critics say, none can match Nimapara confectioners when it comes to making Chenna Jhilis.

 

Irresistible Aloo Chop

Behind us in the kitchen, Aloo Chops (boiled potato balls dipped in spiced gram flour batter and deep fried) were just out of the frying pan. An irresistible aroma of fried besan and aloo filled the air. After sipping a glass of tea, we quickly packed some of these deep-fried potato balls and proceeded towards Ramchandi. This time, there were villages on both sides of the road with eye-soothing greenery all-around. The drizzle stopped but the clouds stayed put.

After an hour of drive through the Puri-Konark Marive Drive, we reached the Lotus Resort at Ramchandi. The resort boasts of owing a private beach, although I fail to understand the concept. (I mean how can a beach be a private property? And in this case, it wasn't even well maintained). The resort was environed by flowering plants of all varieties with a small kitchen garden at one corner.

Ducks occasionally made their way through the garden. There were wooden planks strategically placed throughout the landscape, which had notes on nature. One read: Live Green, Love Green, Think Green.  
After a stroll on the 'private beach', which hosts the annual India Surf Festival, we travelled a little further to another beach. Surrounded by swaying Casurina trees on one side, this one was comparatively clean, unpretentious and secluded.
Soon, happy screams prevailed. We ran towards the green sea and let the waves come closer to us. The water touched my feet and coaxed me to come even closer to the ocean. It was a quiet moment of gratitude, a feeling of contentment with life. We sat on the beach making sand castles and even our driver joined us in the sandy endeavour. (I do not remember his name but we called him Mr Shahrukh Khan. He constantly gave us tips on photography!). 

Unlike other beaches in the State, the closest being at Chandrabhaga and Puri, this one had no vendors on the shore to hound visitors. Far from the hustle bustle of the city, the beach turned out to be an ideal place for harried souls like us seeking recluse.

Amidst the Blue Waters of Odisha

With a coastline of 485 km along the Bay of Bengal, Odisha is home to some of the best beaches in India. From Balasore to Ganjam, these pristine and beautiful beaches have everything to offer to a visitor from a clean sea bed to turquoise blue waters to golden sparkling sand. Travellers can lie back and witness sea waves crashing melodiously on the shore or engage in fun-filled activities, including fishing with the local fishermen, besides uninterrupted sunbathing. Almost all the unspoilt beaches are perfect destinations for travellers looking for tranquillity as well as adventure. Here's a look at the most scenic beaches of ODISHA.

Paradip Beach in Jagatsinghpur District

Paradip Beach in Jagatsinghpur district offers a gorgeous view of the Bay of Bengal. In fact, the beach is located on the confluence of the Mahanadi River and the Bay of Bengal. It has clear blue water, large stones on the shore and a good marine drive road. The place is ideal for a family trip, where one can go swimming or enjoy a stroll by the shimmering water. It is 94 km from Cuttack, 125 km from Bhubaneswar and connected by good roads. Although beautiful, the beach is rough many a times, particularly the two km stretch from Hanuman Temple to Sandakhuda in Paradip and the one km shoreline at Siali.

Although beautiful, the beach is rough many a times, particularly the two km stretch from Hanuman Temple to Sandakhuda in Paradip and the one km shoreline at Siali

These beach stretches have been identified as critically-vulnerable zones and are very risky for sea bathing. There is a lighthouse near the beach, which is armed with the latest differential global positioning system. There are several other attractions nearby. Visitors can relax at the sylvan gardens of Smurti Udyan, a place dedicated to the people who lost their lives in the 1999 Super Cyclone. The musical fountain inside the park is worth a watch. Odisha's biggest aquarium, the Paradip Marine Aquarium, is also located in Paradip city. It has 28 tanks with different species of fish. Paradip is also famous for its port, one of the oldest in the world. It stands testimony to the rich maritime heritage of the region. 

Gopalpur Beach in Ganjam District

Situated 16 km away from Berhampur, Gopalpur-on-Sea is a splendid retreat for avid beach lovers. From golden sands to clear blue waters, the beach has everything that can entice visitors. Besides a sun-kissed beach, Gopalpur-on-Sea offers glimpses of its past glory as a commercial port. The crumbling walls and pillars of an ancient jetty can still be found on the beach. In fact, Gopalpur was once a bustling maritime zone in Odisha and a sea port through which early settlers of Southeast Asia sailed off. Established during the British rule, the port stopped functioning in 1942 during the Second World War. There are ruins of several bungalows and mansions belonging to the European merchants, which give it a colonial look. 

A red-and-white striped lighthouse also stands on the popular beach. Commissioned in 1871, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in the State

A red-and-white striped lighthouse also stands on the popular beach. Commissioned in 1871, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in the State. Every year during Kartika Purnima, people sail tiny boats made of banana stems and paper, with lamps, betel leaves, crackers, fruits and coins in them, to mark the rich maritime history of Gopalpur-on-Sea. The beach is well connected by an excellent all-weather road which branches off from NH-5 on the outskirts of Berhampur. Regular bus services, taxis and auto rickshaws are also available.

Astaranga Beach in Puri District

Astaranga Beach is another popular beach resort near Puri. The beach offers an enchanting view of the horizon which becomes uncommonly colourful during sunset. In fact, the name Astaranga is a combination of two Odia words—asta (sunset) and ranga (colourful)—and this is why it's also called a photographer's delight. The beach is also a popular fishing destination for Puri district. A small fishing market operates on the beach every morning, where fishermen immediately sell their catch to vendors. There is a shrine of Pir Jahania near the long, sandy beach, which is frequented by both Hindus and Muslims. They come to take the blessings of Pir Jahania and offer a chadar. Apart from the magnificent sea view, visitors can watch the nesting of Olive Ridley turtles during winter. There's also a mangrove path near the mouth of the Devi River. Although a beautiful beach, many areas are muddy or have quicksand and visitors need to take guides when venturing into unexplored areas on the beach. There are no accommodation options near the beach and the travellers need to put up at Puri, Konark or Bhubaneswar. By road, the Astaranga Beach is 90 km from Puri and 19 km from Konark. It is also well-connected to Bhubaneswar.

Puri Sea Beach

This destination certainly needs no introduction. This beach in the pilgrim city of Puri is the most popular beach in Odisha and the largest in the country. The splendid beach stretches up to seven km and is a round-the-year destination for both domestic and international travellers. Visitors can enjoy both the sunrise and the sunset, sunbathe, sit back on the beach and watch local fishermen pulling their catch or mending their nets play with the waves, along with listening to the melodious rendition of the striking waves. 

Compared to other beaches in the country, Puri Beach is considered to be safer as it does not face high tide and undercurrent very often. High tides occur only during full moon, so taking a bath in the sea is an enjoyable experience

Compared to other beaches in the country, the Puri Beach is considered to be safer as it does not face high tide and undercurrent very often. High tides occur only during full moon, so taking a bath in the sea is an enjoyable experience. The area near the beach is dotted with hotels and lodgings for travellers of all categories. For food lovers, there are several shacks along the beach selling fried and grilled seafood like prawns, crabs and pomfrets, freshly caught from the sea, along with vegetable pakodas. There are also many shops selling Odisha handlooms and seashell handicrafts. Like Chandrabhaga, Puri also has a lighthouse which remains open from 4 pm to 6 pm. One can get a spectacular view of the sea and the beach from the top of the lighthouse.

Chandrabhaga Beach in Puri District

Known for its mesmerising sunset, the Chandrabhaga Beach is considered to be one of the biggest assets of the state as far as tourism is concerned. One of the finest, cleanest and greenest beaches in eastern India, it is located at Chandrabhaga village which is just three km away from the 13th-century Sun Temple at Konark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

As there are several mythological tales associated with the beach, a week-long Chandrabhaga Mela is organised here every year to honour the Sun god.

 
According to historians, the ships took the Sun Temple as a reference point in the sea during the maritime trade between Odisha (Kalinga), Bali, Java and Sumatra, Later, a lighthouse was constructed on Marine Road in 1967 to guide the ships. As there are several mythological tales associated with the beach, a week-long Chandrabhaga Mela is organised here every year to honour the Sun god. Every year during December and January, the Tourism Department of the Government of Odisha hosts an annual International Sand Art Festival on the sidelines of the popular Konark Dance Festival at the World Heritage Site. The Chandrabhaga Beach can be visited anytime during the year and there are a lot of luxury and budget accommodations near the beach and the Sun Temple. There are also many restaurants and refreshment stalls near the beach. Visitors can purchase beautiful seashell handicrafts from stalls on the beach at affordable prices. People can hire taxis from Bhubaneswar or Puri to reach the destination.

Baliharachandi Beach in Puri District

Swaying casuarina trees, an unending stretch of golden sand and the turbulent sea form the picturesque landscape of Baliharachandi Beach. Located 27 km away from Puri, the beach is a popular round-the-year picnic spot. A swim in the tumultuous sea is a delight for those seeking adventure. 
Besides the clean blue sea, the beach is famous for the temple of goddess Harachandi close by. The temple's sanctum sanctorum houses an asta bhuja (eight-armed) Mahisamardini Durga, who is worshipped as goddess Harachandi. She is regarded as the goddess of water and navigation who protects fishermen. All tourists coming to the beach make it a point to pay obeisance to the deity. A small river flows into the sea just 200 m away from the temple, and can be crossed in a boat for just Rs 5. On the other side of the river, there is a massive sandy dune with casuarina trees that makes for an ideal picnic spot for travellers. While the summer in Baliharchandi is extremely humid and hot, the beach experiences a tropical monsoon climate. The best time to plan a visit to Baliharachandi Beach is between the months of October and March. The beach is accessible with good roads, with the nearest railway station at Puri.

Balighai Beach in Puri District

Situated eight km on the north-eastern side of Puri, Balighai is a pristine beach that remains relatively undiscovered. It is situated at the mouth of the Nuanai River, off the Konark-Puri Marine Drive road. The beach is also a nesting site for the endangered Olive Ridley sea turtles who visit the beach every year from December to January for mass nesting. Migratory birds can be seen here during the winter months. In the evening, one can also enjoy deep fried seafood at shacks on the beach. Other attractions near the beach are the Balihirana Deer Sanctuary, where visitors can spot the endangered Balihirana antelope and Indian blackbucks; the Sea Turtle Research Centre, and small temples like Barahi, Lakshminarayan and the Amareshra. In fact, the temple of goddess Barahi dates back to the 9th century and is related to early forms of tantric worship. There are very few accommodations in the area, except for some luxury resorts in the Konark-Puri Marine Drive road. Visitors can stay in Puri and hire a taxi to reach the beach. The best time to visit the beach is between October and March.

 Aryapalli Beach in Ganjam District

Far from the hustle and bustle of city life, the silvery, quiet beach of Aryapalli is ideal for unwinding. At a distance of 30 km from Berhampur, the golden beach is surrounded by casuarina plantations and crystal-clear blue waters. While the weather is a little humid in the noon, it is pleasant towards early morning and evening. During the sunrise and the sunset, the azure sky offers an amazing colour play. Unlike other beaches, Aryapalli does not have many vendors on the shore to hound visitors. After sunbathing at the beach, visitors can go round the hamlets nearby, inhabited by Telugu-speaking fishermen, and know the socio-cultural aspects of their lives. The Sand Mineral Project lies in the vicinity, and is another attraction that cannot be missed. The area near the beach has a number of resorts and sea-facing hotels that are equipped with all amenities. The ideal time to visit Aryapalli is between the months of October and June, when the weather is at its best. Travellers can reach Arypalli beach through a taxi or an auto-rickshaw after getting down at the Chatrapur railway station in Ganjam district. The beach is just eight km from the railway station. One can also hire a taxi from Berhampur city as the National Highway passing through the beach is also well-maintained.  

 Chandipur Beach in Balasore district

Chandipur beach in Balasore district is the only beach in the eastern India where the sea recedes up to five km daily at low tide and returns during high tide, offering a truly unique sight. Adding to the beauty are the casuarina trees dotting the area. When the tide returns, fishermen rush to collect the small fishes that the waves leave behind at the shore. 

Sea recedes up to five km daily at low tide and returns during high tide. When the tide returns, fishermen rush to collect the small fishes that the waves leave behind at the shore.

 
The beach is replete with small red crabs that emerge from tiny holes on the sea bed and rush towards the vanishing water during low tide. It is equally captivating to watch the sunrise and sunset at the beach. Touted as one of the finest beaches of Odisha, Chandipur is just 16 km east of Balasore and easily accessible by road. A visit to the beach is not complete without a stroll on the dry sea bed with a packet of jhalmuri and coconut water in hand. After reaching Balasore, visitors cab hire an auto-rickshaw or taxi to reach Chandipur. There are plenty of accommodations near the beach. The Tourism Department of Odisha has a Pantha Nivas. Other places of interest like Remuna, Panchalingeswar, Aradi and Chandaneswar also lie close by. 

Balaramgadi Beach in Balasore District

Soak up the sun at the wonderful beach of Balaramgadi, which lies at the convergence of the Budhabalanga River with the Bay of Bengal in Balasore district. Calm and clean, the beach is just two km away from Chandipur Beach. Here, a tourist can enjoy the sun, surf and the sand amidst casuarina plantations. 

Visitors wishing to fish in the sea can seek the help of local fishermen who will readily volunteer to take their boat for a small price

 
While a walk on the beach in the evening is rejuvenating at any time of the day, the sunrise and sunset cast an especially magical spell. Besides swimming in the turbulent yet clean waters, one can take part in fishing and boat rides. Visitors wishing to fish in the sea can seek the help of local fishermen who will readily volunteer to take their boat for a small price. Smaller in comparison to Chandipur, Balaramgadi Beach is for those who want to unwind away from the cacophony. Visitors can hire an auto-rickshaw from Chandipur Beach to Balaramgadi, which is roughly an hour away. There are limited accommodations here and visitors have to stay near Chandipur Beach. The drive from Chandipur to Balaramgadi is a beautiful one, with casuarina trees on both the sides.

God's Own Garden

Road to Heaven: From Shillong to Mawlynnong

Mawlynnong is a paradise in its own right. Even before the term 'Swachch Bharat' was coined by the present Government, people of this village have implemented it in true letter and spirit. Far from the hustle bustle of city life, here is a destination that has everything that a tourist wants―tranquillity, adventure, nature's beauty―and to top it all, cleanliness. Unlike other tourist destinations that are often ill maintained, this is a village where cleanliness is a norm that every villager abides by. Yes, the village is extremely clean and has hidden treasures within. Read on to know more about the enriching experience that Mawlynnong can be.

Nestled barely four km from the Bangladesh border and 90 km away from Shillong - Mawlynnong - is the nearest I could get to paradise. A paradise in true sense of the word.
Even as there are many interesting places in and around Shillong, my choice of visiting the small, picturesque village of Mawlynnong was not random. For, the village has earned the reputation of being the ‘Cleanest Village in Asia’. It was accorded the status in 2003 by the Discover India magazine. After reaching Shillong, I and three of my friends set out for Mawlynnong on a Sunday morning in a taxi. The journey, I must say, was as beautiful as the destination. The road was relatively empty that day so we stopped on a ridge overlooking the Sohra plateau. We climbed onto top of this small hillock and got an eagle's eye view of the terrain below us. I wished I could get on a glider to enjoy the view.

 

After around three scenic hours of driving through meandering narrow roads, we arrived at Mawlynnong. ‘God’s Own Garden’ – the sign at the entrance of the village read. Inhabited by people belonging to the Khasi tribe, we were awestruck by Mawlynnong’s cleanliness and aesthetic beauty. The village was dotted with small houses each sporting a colourful neat garden.  Clean concrete walkways and beautiful flowerbeds all along marked the village that is home to 87 Khasi households. Interestingly, there were no fences between the houses and huts. The village was spotless with no debris on the ground and no littering of any sort. The paths were also dotted with dustbins made of bamboo. Plastic bags are completely banned and waste, at the end of the day, is thrown into a pit dug in a forest near the village where it is left to turn into compost. There is a small tea stall at the entrance of the village. We stopped here for a cup of tea and our guide Henry was there to receive us. He then took us to the Mawlynnong guest house, rather a tree house, which Carol Nongrum, a member of the Meghalaya Tourism Development Forum, had booked for us in Shillong.

Large rocks with deep craters in them can be found in every corner of the village. The name Mawlynnong actually means Cluster of Stone. These craters are used by villagers to store rain water.

The house, entirely made of bamboo, had two cosy rooms on both sides and a central area. Outside, there was a machan that looked onto the jungle and a small waterfall beneath. The machan was suspended at least 80 to 100 feet in the air, supported and constructed by bamboo on stilts. Connecting the verandah to the first machan, was a narrow bamboo bridge.
Staying in a tree house like this one was indeed a childhood dream come true. The rooms had comfortable double beds also made of bamboo, clean linen and blankets, mosquito-nets and squeaky clean bathrooms.
We quickly placed our luggage in the house and set out to explore the nature’s marvels that Mawlynnong had in store for us. Henry took us to Riwai village which was 10 minutes drive away from Mawlynnong. Riwai housed one of the most interesting and unique creations of nature, a living root bridge formed by roots of Indian rubber trees. It was a 20 minute trek to the root bridge from the village. About 150 years old, the roots of two trees have been entwined by villagers to grow into a natural bridge. A gurgling stream flanked by dense forest flows below the root bridge giving the finishing touch to the postcard picture setting.

The Living Root Bridge

The small stream beneath

Next, we proceeded towards Niriang Falls located amid thick forests on the outskirts of Riwai. The roar of falling water, butterflies fluttering around and the mist – the sight was astounding at the bottom of the falls. We were sweating after the difficult trek to the falls and dipped our heads into the water to get some respite. The trek uphill was the perhaps the most tiring thing I had done in the recent past.

The secret waterfall

Nature's Balancing Rock

Henry took us to another spot nearby which defied the forces of nature, The Balancing Rock or Maw Ryngkew Sharatia as it is locally called. A huge flat rock lay balanced on a much smaller rock and has been so for how many years, none knew. It is believed to have been an old Khasi sacrificial altar.
After the tiring trip, we went back to our guest house to freshen up and have a late lunch. The caretakers, whose hut was on the guest house premises, served us local chicken, fish curry, rice and fresh vegetables that were seasoned with Khasi herbs.
Our evening at Mawlynnong was spent in lazy walks around the village and a visit to another attraction – the Sky View Point or the Hanging Bridge. The bridge was made out of bamboos spanning across two trees. Atop the Sky View, we could clearly see the flooded plains of Bangladesh as far as the eyes could go.
Henry told us that Mawlynnong's reputation for cleanliness has even earned it a place on the State's tourism map. “Our village is a 100 years old, and we have learnt to maintain cleanliness for generations,” he said. There is a fine imposed by the village council for anybody found to be throwing litter around or cutting trees. Besides, children are taught to collect litter at an early age and regular inspections are carried out by village council on sanitation facilities in each house. True to his words, cleanliness seemed like a way of life for villagers here.

Our Lunch: Rice, Dal, Chicken seasoned with local herbs

Since it was a long day for all of us, we returned back to our house early and decided to relax at the machan under a star-studded sky with doses of Khasi beer till it was time to retire for the day.
The next morning greeted us with a sunny smile. The village looked like a colourful canvas decorated with flowers of various hues. We finally said bye to Mawlynnong with this mesmerising sight in our eyes.

Here's my quick guide on Mawlynnong:

1. Valleys of East Khasi Hills

The drive through cloud-kissed valleys from Shillong, nicknamed Scotland of the East, to Mawlynnong is a surreal experience. There's a saying that the journey is as beautiful as the destination in this part of the country. The meandering roads from Shillong are surrounded by hills with small cascading waterfalls on both the sides―a postcard picture setting. Mawlynnong is located 90 km south of Shillong.
There are a number of view points en route that provide a glimpse into the spectacular green valleys and the breathtaking landscape that accompanies the traveller till the entry point of Cherrapunjee. Here, the road bifurcates into two directions―while one goes towards Cherrapunjee (locally known as Sohra), another turns left towards Dawki-Tamabil route, which is the border crossing point to Bangladesh. Mawlynnong is only one hour drive from here. After crossing the hilly routes, the road to the village is a stretch of curvy plains covered with long grass. Visitors can hire taxis from Shillong and for those looking at budget options can take shared taxis to reach the village.

2. Mawlynnong Village

This small picturesque village, which overlooks the sylvan plains of Bangladesh, is unique in more ways than one. It has earned the sobriquet of 'God's Own Garden' and the Discover India Magazine had accorded Mawlynnong the status of being 'Asia's Cleanest Village' in 2003. The achievement might be an old one, but the village folks continue to live up to it. The lush green village, located in Pynursla block of East Khasi Hills district in Meghalaya, has around 87 environment-conscious families who make sure their abode is spic and span round-the-clock. Villagers take turns to clean the concrete roads, which are decorated with colourful creepers, natural stone structures and flowering plants of varied hues. In front of every house, there is a large rock with deep crater in it, which is used by villagers to collect rainwater.

At every 30 metres of the roads, there is a bamboo basket placed where people can throw in the garbage. The garbage collected throughout the day is thrown in a large pit on the outskirts of the village and left to turn into compost. Littering is a punishable offence and plastic has been banned here. The cosy houses on stilts are primarily built with bamboo and straw and all the households have a small garden of flowering plants and fruit-bearing trees. For tourists, the village has just one small eatery, Halathygkong, which serves tea, local noodles, puffs and pastries.

3. Experiencing Khasi Culture

Experiencing the lifestyle of Khasi residents is a must for every visitor to Mawlynnong. Here, the society is a matrilineal one where women take control of everything, from economy to managing household. The youngest girl in a household inherits the property and children take their mother's surname. Unlike other parts of the country, girls here are free to choose their life partner but within the community.
Interestingly, the village boasts of 100 percent literacy rate. There is a primary school in Mawlynnong which has maintained zero student dropout rate so far. Apparently, students are taught nuances of cleanliness in the classrooms from an early age. Agriculture is the mainstay and besides paddy, villagers grow cash crops like bay leaf, betel nuts and local spices. They also cultivate fruits like oranges, papaya and pineapples, which are sold in Shillong and often in bordering areas of Bangladesh. Their staple food is rice and fish, which is available aplenty in the local water bodies. While some villagers are also into fishing, there is a strict no to cattle and poultry rearing. Villagers reason that livestock rearing would create dirt in the village. While the entire village maintains a strict cleanliness regime, Khasi women can be seen either washing clothes or cleaning the village roads throughout the day.

4. Church of the Epiphany

Khasis in Mawlynnong are devout Christians. Surrounded by orange and palm trees, stands a 100-year-old church in the village called 'Church of the Epiphany'. Narrow stone paths with plants bearing orange flowers reach out to the Church, which is a black and white structure exuding an old-world charm. There are no houses that rise above the Church spire.
According to history, Welsh Christian missionaries came to Mawlynnong in the 19th century from Bangladesh and since then, the village has been following a strong tradition of Christianity. The government website of Meghalaya reads that the village was initially known as 'Ri Kharpangkhat' and it got the name of Mawlynnong during the Christian mission of Rev. G A Jones. Mawlynnong, meaning a Cluster of Stones, was derived from the fact that there are numerous rocks in the village that have craters in them. Interestingly, villagers link the tradition of cleanliness to Christianity. They say it is the missionaries that changed their lives and taught them ways to reach God through cleanliness.

5. Sky Walk to Flooded Plains of Bangladesh

Located a little away from the entry point to Mawlynnong, there stands the Sky Walk, a unique structure that gives a glimpse to the neighbouring country of Bangladesh. It is an eco-friendly ladder-like structure that has been made entirely of bamboo poles tied to branches of six trees using jute and bamboo ropes. No nails or any metal has been used in putting the structure together. A visitor has to climb four circular layers of bamboo ladders―stretching across the tree branches―that extends up to a height of 80 feet. Atop the Sky Walk, there is a square platform, again made of bamboo, from where the inundated Bangladesh Plains can be easily viewed.

Climbing the Sky Walk takes around 30 minutes. The entire structure is surrounded by large trees with a small water channel in between which is often used by locals for cleaning clothes and collecting water. The villagers charge Rs 10 per person who is willing to climb the Sky Walk to witness the Bangladesh Plains and have a bird's eye view of Mawlynnong. From the top, the village looks like a green carpet dotted with colourful flowers. The money goes into making the structure afresh every year to ensure safety of tourists. No eatables packed in polythene sheets are allowed in the area.

6. Machaan, A Tree House

The village has limited accommodation options for tourists but one of the most beautiful options available is the centrally-located Tree House, an eco-friendly guest house raised in stilts and made of bamboo. Resembling a Khasi hut, the guest house has a small rock garden in the front decorated with blooming marigold, orchids and wild flowers. Inside, there is a verandah, two rooms with four beds on both the sides, a living room, dining area and a Machan (an elevated rectangular platform on the branches of a tree). While the dining area overlooks a beautiful forest on the outskirts of Mawlynnong, a small waterfall is located beneath the Machan and one can hear the gentle gurgling of the water. The Machan is connected to the dining area with long bamboo poles that have been tied up with jute ropes. The interiors of the guest house have nothing fancy, all the furniture are made of bamboo and even all the knick-knacks in the house including the ashtray are made of bamboo roots.

The guest house is taken care of by the local guide Henry Kharrymba and his family. As far as food is concerned, Henry's family cooks authentic Khasi cuisine that includes local rice, chicken or beef prepared with local herbs, dal and salad. One can also enjoy the local rice beer. There is another similar but small guest house to the left of the main structure. The guest house is a no smoking zone.

7. Living Root Bridge

At a time when the nation is speaking about science and innovation, here lies a man-made wonder that is also an apt example of bio-engineering. In the Wahthyllong hamlet, 10 minutes drive away from Mawlynnong, hangs a large living root bridge over a gurgling stream. Only found in this part of the country, the living root bridge is the result of innovation by the Khasi tribals. Locals say the bridge was constructed to cross the overflowing stream during monsoon. The thick roots of a variety of rubber tree (Ficus elastica), grown on either side of the stream, have been intertwined together by villagers and flat rocks and mud placed on them to make a path. The roots have grown for several years making the living root bridge stronger by each year. No one knows the age of the bridge, but villagers vouch for its longevity and strength. Interestingly, when any villager witnesses a new root even today, he/she weaves it into the bridge structure.

One has to take a fleet of steps downwards to reach the living root bridge. At the entry point, the villagers charge Rs 10 from each visitor willing to see the nature's wonder. The money goes into development of the villagers. While the one at Wahthyllong is a single-decker root bridge, a double-decker root bridge can be seen in Cherrapunji (Sohra). However, the one at Cherrapunji requires the traveller to undertake an extremely difficult trek.

8. Secret Waterfall at Riwai

Mawlynnong has little beautiful secrets hidden deep within. One of them is Niriang Falls, located around five kilometres away from the living root bridge. It is created by the crystal clear water of Wah Rymben River that falls 400 m into a deep green pool located amidst thick green forest. Getting to the spot, though, isn't an easy task; one has to take a steep trek through a slippery stone pathway to reach Niriang Falls. The journey is arduous, but a sight of the waterfall can leave any visitor wonderstruck. One cannot hear any sound other than the roar of the falling water and chirping of birds and crickets. Nature is truly at its best here. The magnificent waterfall attains its full glory during the monsoon when there is a massive flow of water.
The waterfall is a "secret" one, as put by the local guide, because people rarely visit the place due to the difficult approach road to it. Below the main waterfall, there are two smaller ones located to its left. The only problem one has to take care at the spot is the leeches that are stuck to the rocks below the waterfall. There is no entry fee.

9. Balancing Rock

On the outskirts of the village lies a balancing rock, a must see nature's wonder for science freaks. Enclosed within a wired fence, the spot has two stones, a huge boulder resting on a smaller stone. The structure has remained like that for ages and no cyclone or storm has been able to disturb the formation. The place, which is surrounded by bamboo plantations, is called Nature's Balancing Rock or Maw Ryngkew Sharatia, locally.
While some elderly locals say that this was the spot where human sacrifices were made 1000 years back to appease the presiding deity of the area, the local guide Henry informs that it was an ancient shrine of the Khasi tribals that was no longer used after the advent of Christianity in Mawlynnong and Riwai. There is no entry fee to the spot and unlike the living root bridge and waterfall, it can be easily accessible in a four-wheeler. Maw Ryngkew Sharatia is one of the few places in the country where balancing rock can be seen. A similar structure is Krishna's Butterball, which can be seen in Mahabalipuram, Tamil Nadu.

FACT FILE

Getting there: Mawlynnong is situated 90 km south to Shillong, Meghalaya. Taxis are available to the village from Shillong round-the-clock at the price range between Rs 1800 and Rs 2000. It preferable to hire the taxi for overnight stay and visits to the tourists spots nearby the village.

View of Flooded Bangladesh Plains from Sky View

Where to stay: Mawlynnong guesthouse has two huts — the larger accommodates four persons and costs Rs 2,400 while the smaller sleeps two and costs Rs 1,000 each. To book, call Deepak Laloo or Carol Nongrum (0364-2502420, 09863115302). The caretakers prepare tasty meals that include some interesting local cuisine using meats, jackfruit and Khasi herbs. One has to pay an additional Rs 250 for the tourist guide and Rs 100 towards community welfare and upkeep besides the food and accommodation charges.