Craftsmen of the Gods

Three temple-shaped chariots tower over the sea of humanity at the Grand Road in Puri. It is that time of the year again when the Trinity — Lord Jagannath and His divine siblings Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra — travel to their aunt’s house from the 12th century Jagannath Temple for an annual sojourn, riding their respective chariots. The occasion is Rath Yatra, the biggest religious festival of Odisha. While Lord Jagannath’s Nandighosha chariot is 45 feet high, Devi Subhadra travels in the 43 feet high Debadalana and Lord Balabhadra rides the 44 feet tall Taladhwaja. These architectural marvels are carefully crafted by a team of 75 carpenters under the watchful eyes of three Mukhya Biswakarmas (chief carpenters)— Bijay Mohapatra, Krushna Chandra Maharana and Nrusingha Mohapatra— within a 58-day deadline that begins on Akshya Trutiya. The Mukhya Biswakarmas belong to a lineage of temple servitors who have been assigned this service for several generations.

Each of them works with a team of 25 carpenters. Every year, Bijay takes charge of building Nandighosha (the biggest among the three) for Lord Jagannath, while Nrusingha and his carpenters build the Taladhwaja. Eighty-three year-old Krushna, the eldest of the three chief carpenters, constructs Debadalana for Devi Subhadra. The three had last year also built new idols of the Trinity in the temple for the Nabakalebara. The Rath Yatra’s history is several centuries old, but the traditional style of making the chariots has not changed. 

Nrusingha, Krushna and Bijay

A wooden log in front of the wheels serves as the manually operated brake in the chariot, which is pulled by lakhs of devotees. Last year, 17 feet high and 16-inch wide Sal logs were used as brakes in each of the three chariots,” informed 55-year-old Bijay, whose involvement in making the Nandighosha chariot began at the age of 11.

The unique feature of chariot construction is that all the measurements are done by hand span. “We have never used a scale or measuring tape. Our forefathers used to measure the logs with their hands,” recalls Bijay. The Mukhya Biswakarmas say a total of 42 wheels are required for the three chariots, with 16 wheels for Nandighosha, 14 for Taladhwaja and 12 for Debadalana. Nrusingha says that making the wheels is the most important part of the construction. “The chariots are made with Phasi logs and over 5,000 pieces of wood are required. Once the logs arrive in Ratha Khala (chariot construction yard), we select 70 carpenters who size them for the chariots. We lay special focus on sizing the wheels because if they are not proportionate, chariots will not move safely,” he adds.

Nrusingha has been making chariots for the last 14 years. The frame and wheels are decorated with colourful designs inspired from Odishan temple architecture. The frames are then covered with intricately embroidered green, black, yellow and red cloth, which are embellished with Pipili applique craft and brass figures. Bijay and Nrusingha hope to construct chariots for 10 more Rath Yatras before they allow their successors to take over. Krushna, on the other hand, has already started training his four grandsons . “This is hereditary work and it has to continue, come what may. We are bound by the wishes of Lord Jagannath,” the Trinity’s carpenter says with a smile.

The story was first published in The New Indian Express

A Cultural Kaleidoscope That Puri Is

 Puri has always been a fresh canvas to the photographer’s eye. The centuries-old town exudes a raw charm and unforgettable warmth. TRLT brings you glimpses of different colours and tastes of the town, captured during a recent photo walk.

The 12th century Jagannath Temple at Puri

Aruna Stambha Outside the Jagannath Temple. It is said that Aruna is the  charioteer of God Surya. The Pillar is 32-ft-high and is made of high-quality granite. Lord Aruna is sitting atop Pillar with folded hands looking towards the Deities.

The sculpture of a Lion preying on an Elephant beneath the Aruna Stambha

Devotees at the Lion's Gate of Jagannath Temple

Khaja, also known as Pheni, is a very famous Odia sweet and it is one among the Chappan (56) varieties of 'bhog' (Mahaprasad) offered to Lord Jagannath. Legends say Lord Jagannath appeared in the dream of a man from Puri and instructed him how to prepare it.

Hardly two kilometres away from the Temple, begins the Puri Beach, a destination that certainly needs no introduction.  The Puri beach is the most popular beach in Odisha and the largest in the country. It stretches up to seven km and is a round-the-year destination for both domestic and international travellers. Visitors can enjoy both the sunrise and the sunset, sunbathe, sit back on the beach and watch local fishermen pulling their catch or mending their nets and listen to the melodious rendition of the striking waves.

Compared to other beaches in the country, the Puri Beach is considered to be safer as it does not face high tide and undercurrent very often. High tides occur only during full moon, so taking a bath in the sea is an enjoyable experience. The area near the beach is dotted with hotels and lodgings for travellers of all categories. For food lovers, there are several shacks along the beach selling fried and grilled seafood like prawns, crabs and pomfrets, freshly caught from the sea, along with vegetable pakodas. There are also many shops selling Odisha handlooms and seashell handicrafts. There is a lighthouse which remains open from 4 pm to 6 pm. One can get a spectacular view of the sea and the beach from the top of the lighthouse. 

The view outside my window at the OTDC Hotel

 

A tea shop by the Sea

 

Fishermen get busy checking their nets after returning with a Catch from the Sea

Their Catch

Shells for Sale

Clouds Approach the Puri Beach

Overcast

An old building in the vicinity

 Puri offers a lot in terms of places to eat. Being a Beach Town, Puri is a sea-food lover's paradise. There are shacks on the beach that prepare the seafood caught by the local fishermen. Select your fish, get it prepared and savour it watching the sunset.
While Odia and Bengali delicacies are easy to find, one can also check out restaurants offering Italian, Continental and Awadhi cuisine. Even pure vegetarian restaurants are not hard to find. Try Promphet Fry at 'Gaan' restaurant of Fort Mahodadhi, Prawn Sizzlers and Desi Chicken at Wild Grass or a delectable choice of Pastas and Pancakes at Hotel Honey Bee Bakery and Pizzeria.  

Rice Noodles and Chicken at Hotel Lee Garden. Head to this beautiful place if You want to taste authentic Chinese food

Chicken Curry at OTDC

Puri Sabzi for Breakfast

Honey, Banana Pancake with Ice-cream at Hotel Honey Bee Bakery and Pizzeria

Pasta with Tomato sauce, Sausage, pickled Olives and some India Masalas at Honey Bee Bakery and Pizzeria. The place is small but they serve awesome food

OTDC plays a perfect host

It starts raining in the evening

Lush green land on the outskirts of Puri

 Travellers' Info: 

Puri is located at a distance of 59 km from Bhubaneswar by road and 63 km by rail. Visitors can either hire a taxi or take a bus to Puri. There are plenty of options for accommodation near the Beach area. Best time to visit is from July to February.   Places to see nearby are the Sun Temple at Konark, Raghurajpur Crafts Village, Satpada, Chilika Lake and Alarnath.

Deba Snana Purnima

Gajanan Vesha of the Trinity on the occasion of Deba Snana Purnima in Puri

Lord Balabhadra, Devi Subhadra and Lord Jagannath atop the Snana Bedi before the bathing rituals

Snana Mandap at Jagannath Temple in Puri

The 12th Century Jagannath Temple in Puri

 Here are some glimpses of the Deba Snana Purnima of Lord Jagannath, Devi Subhadra and Lord Balabhadra at Puri, which was celebrated on Tuesday. As per the rituals, the Trinity were taken to the bathing altar at the outer complex of Jagannath temple where they were bathed with 108 pitchers of aromatic and herbal water that was taken out from the Suna Kua (golden well) near Maa Shitala inside the Uttara Dwara (north gate) of the temple.

The Gajapati Dibyasingh Dev - the foremost servitor of the Lord - arrived at the Snana Mandap for Chhera Pahanra (sweeping of the Snana Mandap with a golden broom) atop the Snana Bedi. After performing a complex set of rituals, the servitors decked the Trinity in Gaja Besha, incarnation of Lord Ganesh. The priests then offered 'bhog' to the deities before allowing public for Sahana Mela (public darshan).

The Sahana Mela which began at 6 pm and continued till 11 pm. Late in the night, the deities were escorted to a solitary place in the temple complex, 'Anasar Ghara' (sick room). The deities, supposedly suffering from fever after taking the bath, would retire to bed for 45 days. During this time public darshan is closed in the main temple and representative deities are placed in the sanctum sanctorum. With the Nabakalebara of the Trinity being observed this year, they  will have a 'Maha Anasara' for 45 days, 30 days more than the usual 'Anasara' held every year. The temple physician would treat the deities in the sick room with herbal medicines in this period.  

As per religious belief, during Anasara period Lord Jagannath manifests in Alarnath Dev in Brahmagiri. Devotees in large numbers rush to Alarnath temple, 23 km from Puri and offer Kheer Prasad.